Aunt Emily

Emily Bowyer Hammel was my father's older sister. She was the dearest person I've ever known. Over several adolescent summers, she patiently taught me how to sew and how to cook. I loved her. Sadly, she has been gone these few years and I miss her very much. However, I am carrying on her legacy of sewing and trying to carry on her legacy of caring.

Saturday, October 3

New Vogue Patterns

I was online this a.m. when the email notification came that the VOGUE website had new patterns for Fall/Winter. I immediately looked to see and here are the interesting patterns. Italicized text is a direct copy from the website. CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO GO TO A LARGER VIEW or click on title above to go to the What's New page at Vogue Patterns.

Two new "companion" patterns from Sandra Betzina. I do like the top and its' semi-corset look. And it is nice paired with the skirt (and obi in pattern). I just don't like that they are presented as separate patterns - they so obviously go together. The top is a must buy for me - I love it and can see it with just slightly longer sleeves, working for me.
Skirt: Flared skirt is very loose-fitting at hip, with “outside” darts. A: invisible zipper, underskirt, contrast hem band, waistband and ribbon or trim. B: back zipper closure, optional hem band and ribbon or trim. C: obi has contrast ties.
Top: Semi-fitted tops A, B have princess seams, upper bodice extending into cap sleeves and optional lining. A: large hook and eye closures. B: concealed hook and eye tape closures.

And THE FORTIES ARE BACK!!! as Vogue magazine in September declared. There are several forties inspired and two new vintage reproductions.
VINTAGE VOGUE 1945 courtesy of Victoria Dougherty
MISSES' JACKET AND DRESS: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket has waistline seam, darts, tucked peplum and three-quarter length sleeves with gathers at lower underarm seam, shoulder pads, bound buttonholes and buttons with option to cover. Dress, lower calf length, has fitted, sleeveless bodice, straight skirt with pleated back, round neckline in front, applied bands in back, forming v-neckline and side zipper.
AA (6-8-10-12) EE (14-16-18-20)
VINTAGE VOGUE 1950 courtesy of Laurie E. Wiest
MISSES' COAT, DRESS AND BELT: Very loose-fitting, reversible flared coat A has stand-up collar, patch pockets with flaps and below elbow length kimono sleeves with deep cuffs. Fitted, sleeveless dresses B, C have lined bodice, v-neckline, darts, side zipper and side vent openings. B: belt. C: patch pockets with flaps and purchased belt. BB (8-10-12-14) FF (16-18-20-22) (NOTE: YES, 1950 is still the 40's - this goes back to the turn of the millennium argument - was it the year 2000 or 2001?? I vote for 2001.)

This is a new design, but the late 30's/early 40's feel is very evident. I like the lines, but am not certain if it would look good on me, given the emphasis on the bust.
Above ankle length dress, semi-fitted at hip, has gathered neckline, short sleeves gathered to form drape, above waist seam, back zipper and back slit at neck and lower edges.

Another new design, but again, late 30's/early 40's shine through.
Lined dress, partially interfaced, loose-fitting through bust, has front underbodice, midriff, two-piece sleeves, side invisible zipper closing, front loop with hooks and eyes, above mid-knee length. AA(6-8-10-12), EE(14-16-18-20)
Marcy Tilton has a jacket pattern that I quite like, that might be on my list too.
Semi-fitted jackets A, B have pockets, underarm gussets and front zipper closure. B: silk-screened embellishments. Package includes Marcy Tilton's instructions for silk-screening.

Perhaps I have a warped sense of humor, but I found the following coat pattern to be FUN and sort of CRAZY with great detail. Hum...may have to think about this one too. In velveteen it could be quite "kicky". Lined coat, fitted at bust, flared, mid-calf length, has front darts, back princess seams, turn-back collar with back slit, long three-piece sleeves with band and cuff, side seam and front welt pockets, detachable capelet, embroidery floss for decorative knots at lower edge and snap closures. Purchased hat. (WHERE DID THEY GET THAT HAT??? IT MAKES THE OUTFIT.)
The skirt on this one is standard, but I quite like the jacket. I might have to consider this one. I may even have something similar in the stash - I think a new Kahliah Ali from Simplicity has a similar look in front - it would be easy to add the pleats in back. I'll have to look.
Loose-fitting, lined jacket A has yokes extended into three-quarter length sleeves, front princess seams, back pleats, bias collar and snap closures with button trim. Semi-fitted, tapered, above mid-knee skirt B has faced waistline, center back vent with pleat underlay and back zipper. Separate pattern pieces provided for A, B, C, D cup sizes.
What do you think about this jacket? I like the drawings, but I am hesitant when there isn't a photo of "the real thing". There may be problems in the pattern. I like the lines though, especially the final version in slate blue. Could be very cute.
Loose-fitting, lined jackets A, B, C have darts, waistline seam, collar, front band, side seam pockets, dolman sleeves, shaped hem and topstitch trim. A, B: button and buttonhole closing. C: button and loop closing.
And the final "highlight" is this interesting pattern. I don't think the photography does this any good, but look at the line drawings. This could be very very interesting with the right combo of fabrics. And the circle inset at the back is very interesting too.

Loose-fitting, flared coats A, B, below mid-knee, have collar, collar binding extending into tie ends, deep armholes, contrast yokes, patches, applique, binding, side front pockets, front button closure and long sleeves with elastic. A: contrast upper collar and lining, wrong side of fabric used for trim detail will show. B: contrast collar and ribbon trim on back. BB(8-10-12-14), FF(16-18-20-22)

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